A pyrenean read

Tom bought me “Love and War in the Pyrenees” for our first year anniversary. We spent our honeymoon hiking in the Pyrenees and I was looking forward to a revisit of the beautiful scenery and a bit of a love story amidst the pages. I hadn’t really taken into account the ‘war’ part of the title and found this book a far more harrowing read than I’d expected. Sure, I studied the Second World War at school, and I guess I could regurgitate some names and dates; but the personal stories of struggle and resistance in this book, set in the familiar backdrop of this part of the world I love so much, hit me much harder.

These mountain passes are difficult enough in perfect sunshine, with a pack full of food and the promise of a warm bed at the end of the day. Even with Bailey’s fantastic writing, it is hard to imagine how so many refugees covered these routes in such hard conditions. True tragedies can be a depressing read, and perhaps that is why it’s taken me six months to getting around to reading this book. It is almost impossible to believe the extent of man’s inhumanity to man, but equally incredible to read of the stories of resistance, bravery, and kindness. This book has certainly given me a different perspective on this part of the world. And whilst there is always an argument for simply soaking up the beauty of a place in the moment, this little bit of history has made me marvel at these mountains all the more.

End of the Holidays

It’s been a whirlwind winter break, filled with city trips, family visits, baking and overeating, and relaxed times at home. It’s back to work tomorrow, but not without a little moment to pause and appreciate how much fun Tom and I had this holiday.

Thanks to Alec’s hospitality, we were city-folk for a few days, with gigs, art, and lectures in London. Robin Ince hosted a fabulous night of comedy, music, science and maths, thrilling my inner-geek. We did lots of wandering and were surprised by how quiet London was, once away from the shops.

Tom and I spent Christmas home alone- our first in eleven years and much appreciated. We revelled in Christmas Eve preparations and the relaxed pace of a Christmas Day For Two. With stuffed stockings, and stuffed tummies after an enormous brunch, we had a winter wander before heading back home for presents and an incredibly delicious Christmas Dinner, with all the trimmings (thank you Chef Tom!) Considering that we bought a turkey for 6-8 people, I’m surprised by the lack of leftovers we had..

With so much delicious food, fun times, and good company, this has certainly been a Christmas to remember. Now the new year is upon us, I’m looking forward to new projects, more exploring, and plenty of good food with good friends.

Happy New Year!

End of the Road

We’re still reeling from a great weekend at this year’s End of the Road festival. Breaking with a five year tradition, we abandoned Green Man festival in favour of one closer to home (and more likely to be sunny). We weren’t disappointed; a full weekend of sun, food, books, comedy and music.

The woodland library was the venue of choice for our mornings, host to readings by the lovely James Yorkston from his new book, as well as Laura Barton regaling us with tales of American road trips.

With flying books, tiny people and a forest of lights and origami cranes, this was without doubt the most magical library I’ve ever visited.

At the far end of the festival was the beautifully situated Comedy Stage. Although not extensive, the atmosphere was great, with stand-out performances from two members of Pappy’s and the righteously angry Robin Ince (“But it’s difficult to get angry when so much photosynthesis is going on all around you.”)

It is always hard to choose where to eat at a festival, with so many delicious choices. We overcame this difficulty by eating as much as we possibly could. Cafe Dish, set in the middle of the gardens, amongst peacocks and macaws, was the breakfast spot of choice. Their freshly-made croissants were worth the wait and calories. Hmmmm, butter..

And, of course, we had our fill of beautiful music; some familiar loves like Joanna Newsom and James Yorkston, and plenty of new discoveries like Josh T. Pearson and Sam Amidon. The Paper Cinema put on an incredible live performance, completely changing my mind about puppetry; go see them if you can!

End of the Road is our new favourite way to end the summer. We will be back!

West of Wye

It’s amazing how six days away can feel like a fortnight. Leaving the car behind, we took the train to Chepstow and headed off along the Wye Valley Walk towards Tintern.

The Wye valley, just South of Redbrook. Someone told us that anglers can pay up to £50,000 for a riverside plot. Seems hard to believe when you can walk along it or swim in it for free. There’s more forest here than anywhere back home, and the steep valley climbs did not go unnoticed with packs the size (and weight) of bathtubs.

Peaceful camping at Cherry Orchard Farm. Such a find, we almost hesitate to share the secret.

Enjoying the view from the Offa’s Dyke path, and a walk without heavy packs.

We had a luxurious rest stop at Hay-on-Wye. Couldn’t resist buying a book at Richard Booth’s bookshop; they’ve restored the place beautifully, and it’s vying with the Elliot Bay bookshop in Seattle as our all-time favourite. Kilvert’s was a great pub find, with excellent beer and staff who know their stuff.

The Offa’s Dyke path out of Hay is a steep one, leading through lush fields and up to the Black Mountain.

Grand views and not a breath of wind. We were grateful to have a clear path, having been stingy/foolish and only bought a small scale pink OS map.

Llanthony, our destination for the night. The campsite was full, with visitors to the county show and rodeo, but we still enjoyed a pint from the cellar bar, whilst sitting in the abbey grounds (possibly the best pub garden ever.)

Our last morning up on the Black Mountain. The views are hard to beat. The Brecon Beacons are just the other side of the valley and it was tempting to head straight for them, rather than return home.

But, there’s plenty to return to, with Cowes Week and plenty more sunny days to explore closer to home.

Holiday planning

We’ve been busy today planning a camping trip. Deciding where to go is always a difficult decision; but, as we’re going on Monday, we thought we should settle on somewhere.

The problem is, it is difficult for this summer to beat the last. Here is a little of what we were doing around this time last year.

Getting married.

Exploring Pau.

Hiking in the Pyrenees.

Honeymoons are hard to beat.

This year we couldn’t resist a little more walking, albeit somewhat closer to home. We’re headed West. Enjoy the sunshine. We’ll be back to share our travels next week.

Bryony and Tom